Christmastime in the City: A Holiday Guide

No place is simultaneously more magical and maddening than NYC in December. The city's decked out in it's holiday finest, and tourists and residents alike are out en masse to take it all in. With the lighting of the Rockefeller Christmas Tree, midtown goes on pedestrian gridlock alert for the duration of the year, making our skill of weaving through crowds with ease obsolete. But look! The 3D snowflakes on the Saks Fifth Avenue facade are dancing! To music! And the light snow falling over the Bryant Park holiday market slightly quiets the city and turns exhausted adults into playful kids. And just like that, it's magical again.

Coming up are locations for holiday store windows, gift markets, ice skating, and hot chocolate. But first, some tips for visiting:

1. Be aware of your surroundings. Before visiting New York I was told, "Remember, people live there." True. And easy to forget when on vacation. It's good to keep in mind that this is a crowded, fast-paced city and our family sprawling space is limited. Walk staggered, like we do, and move out of the flow of traffic when looking at pictures, maps or anything else requiring prolonged attention.

2. Ask a New Yorker. If you're lost, want to know where to get good Italian or need to locate the nearest pub, just ask us. Most of us are pretty nice (despite the myths) and will gladly help you. But then we're done. Don't take offense, it's just not a stop and chat city. We're direct, helpful, and then gone.

3. Step aside. When you're done paying for hot chocolate, pizza, Band-Aids, roasted chestnuts from a street vendor or anything else involving a line, step aside. With 8.2 million residents alone, the city moves at a "next!" pace, so grab your goods, and your change, and keep on truckin'.

4. Hold on to your bags. The city's much safer than it used to be, but some of us will still try to steal things. Your things. So keep an eye on them. Don't put purses on the backs of chairs and don't assume the shopping bag you set down while taking pictures of ice skaters will still be there when you're done.

5. Skip the chain restaurants. You're in New York. We have endless food options. Explore, try a new cuisine. Or try a favorite cuisine, but made by a guy using his great-grandmother's recipes. Look on Yelp, Chowhound and Citysearch for restaurant suggestions. Or better yet, ask a local.

Holiday Windows
• Barneys (660 Madison Avenue at 61st Street)
• Bergdorf (754 5th Avenue at 58th Street)
• Bloomingdale's (1000 3rd Avenue at 59th Street)
• Lord & Taylor (424 5th Avenue at 38th Street)
• Macy's (151 W. 34th Street, between Broadway and 7th Avenue)
• Saks Fifth Avenue (611 5th Avenue, between 49th and 50th Street)

Holiday Markets
• Bryant Park (40th-42nd Street, between 5th and 6th Avenue)
• Columbus Circle (59th Street and 8th Avenue)
• Grand Central (87 E. 42nd Street at Park Avenue)
• Union Square (14th Street at Broadway)

Ice skating
• Bryant Park (Entrance closest to 42nd Street and 6th Avenue)
• Rockefeller Center (Enter 5th Avenue at 49th or 50th Street. Walk one block.)
• Standard Hotel (848 Washington at W. 13th Street)
• Wollman Rink (Enter Central Park at 59th Street and 6th Avenue. It's a 2-minute walk.)

Hot chocolate
• La Maison du Chocolat (30 Rockfeller Plaza: W. 49th Street, between 5th and 6th Avenue)
• Bouchon Bakery (Columbus Circle, Time Warner Building, 3rd Floor)
• City Bakery (3 W. 18th Street, between 5th and 6th Avenue)
• Jacques Torres (350 Hudson Street at King Street)
• Max Brenner's (841 Broadway, between 13th and 14th Street)

My friends and I like to end our annual Christmastime in the City Day at Burger Joint. Nothing beats tradition. And after all is said and done - the sights are visited, the crowds are waded through, and copious amounts of photos are taken - nothing beats Christmastime in New York. It truly is magical and maddening, just like the city itself. And we wouldn't have it any other way. Happy holidays!

NYC's Oldest Bars

The year is 1891. You've been crammed aboard a ship from Europe to Ellis Island for 40 days. After you dock and locate your new home, what's next? A refreshing pint, of course! 120 years later you can take refuge from the bustling streets of Manhattan and enjoy a cold one at the same pubs those celebrating their New World arrival imbibed in. Here's a guide:

Fraunces Tavern--1762

No doubt many a glass was raised when George Washington bid farewell to his officers here in 1783. Originally built as a home in 1719, Fraunces Tavern is the oldest building in New York. In addition to a pint, you can enjoy a meal and/or a stroll through the upstairs museum to view historic relics and recreations of 18th century rooms.

http://www.frauncestavern.com/

Ear Inn--1817

Welcome to New York's "oldest working bar." When it opened, this federal-style building sat just 5 feet from the original Hudson River shoreline (now it's a 5 minute walk). The apartment above the bar was used as a smuggler's den, then a brothel, and fun fact: ghosts are periodically spotted. Marked only by a neon "Bar" sign, the Ear was known as The Green Door until 1977 when new owners took over. To avoid the lengthy Landmark Commission's review of a new sign, part of the "B" was painted over, thus becoming "Ear." A glorious no cellphone policy is enforced, which means you can enjoy a drink at the bar or a meal at your table in peace.

http://earinn.com/

Fanelli's Cafe--1847

Fanelli's didn't technically open until 1922, but the space has been a site for alcohol distribution since 1847, when a grocer and spirits dealer occupied the location. That was followed by a porterhouse storefront with an upscale brothel upstairs, and finally, a saloon. The saloon was owned by Nicolas Gerdes, whose name is etched in glass above the entryway. Michael Fanelli was smart to call his bar a "cafe" during the start of Prohibition. Even smarter? A secret room in the cellar housing bathtub gin and bootlegged booze that can still be accessed from a hidden entrance. Enjoy a burger, the gruff bartenders, and a break from the upscale mini-mall that is Soho.

http://nymag.com/listings/bar/fanellis/

McSorley's--1854

You'll drink the same brew as Abe Lincoln and John Lennon since the offerings remain only light or dark ale. They're served two at a time, and don't worry if you spill, the sawdust on the floor will soak that right up. Old photographs and dusty memorabilia line the walls and if you look up you'll notice a gas lamp adorned with wishbones. The bones have been hung by soldiers heading off to war (as far back as the Civil War), hoping for a safe return. And while many bars admitted women at the end of Prohibition, McSorley's adhered to "Good Ale, Raw Onions and No Ladies" until 1970. Even the former owner, Dorothy O'Connell Kirwan, wasn't allowed in during the 100th anniversary. 1970, I'll drink to that.

https://mcsorleysoldalehouse.nyc/

Pete's Tavern--1864

In the ongoing we-were-here-first battle, Pete's bills itself as the "longest continually operating bar and restaurant in New York." It survived Prohibition by disguising itself as a flower shop while operating as a speakeasy. O' Henry, Pete's most famous imbiber, wrote "Gift of the Magi" in his favorite booth in 1902 after a 3-year jail sentence in Austin, TX for embezzlement. Not much has changed as evident from the original 30-foot rosewood bar and tin ceiling. Kick back with some of Pete's own 1864 Original House Ale while indulging in Italian-American grub.

http://www.petestavern.com/

P.J. Clarke's--1884

Frank Sinatra, burgers and enormous urinals are what this joint is known for. Patrick J. Clarke, an Irish immigrant, bought the place in the early 1900s after a 10-year bartending stint. Back in the day, you could find Frank Sinatra, a generous tipper, at Table 20. And Johnny Mercer wrote "One For My Baby (and One More For the Road)," a song made famous by Sinatra, on a napkin here.

Originally 4 stories, Clarke's lost 2 when the neighboring 47-story skyscraper went up in the late 60s. In 2002 a year-long renovation resulted in the opening of Sidecar, a "sophisticated dining venue" on the second floor. The first floor was refurbished (goal was to retain the original look) and all bar contents--except for the infamous urinals--were stored in a warehouse in Long Island City until completion. The urinals were too heavy.

Long known for their burgers, P.J. Clarke's regular, Jackie O, would pair hers with a spinach salad. The "beer window" remains, used during Prohibition when wives and kids would bring buckets to be filled. And also to serve women, who weren't allowed inside until the 60s.

http://www.pjclarkes.com/

White Horse Tavern--1880

Like it's neighbor, the Ear Inn, the White Horse Tavern was originally a destination for longshoremen. In the 50s and 60s it was a haven for writers of the Beat variety: Dylan Thomas, Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac; and the song variety: Bob Dylan and Jim Morrison. Today mention White Horse and people may say "That's where Dylan Thomas drank himself to death." Yes, it was. 18 shots of whiskey, 3 doctor visits to the Chelsea Hotel, 1 coma at St. Vincent's Hospital later, and he was dead at 39. But you can still toast the Welsh poet next to his life-sized painting in the Dylan Thomas room, adjacent the bar.

White horses are scattered throughout in the form of figurines, light fixture adornments and wall hangings. The one that watches customers from above the bar was originally placed there to advertise White Horse Scotch Whiskey, still served there today. But watch your alcohol-induced rowdiness or you'll be thrown out, just like Jack Kerouac. In fact, he was booted so many times a patron wrote "GO HOME JACK!!" on the bathroom wall. It's still there today.

http://nymag.com/listings/bar/white_horse_tavern/

Well, it's now time to get off the computer and onto a bar stool. And raise a glass to the immigrants who made this country what it is, and the patrons who made the bars what they are. Cheers!

Visiting New York: Instead of This...Do This

Today's post is my article on New York travel tips, as seen on CheapOair's great travel site.

New Yorkers are all about being in the know. While visiting, you should be too! Here are some insider tips that revise the usual tourist suggestions. So, instead of doing this...do this.

Empire State Building...Top of the Rock

Instead of standing in the famed long lines at the Empire State Building, go 16 blocks north for equally stunning views of the city at the Top of the Rock - for a fraction of the wait. Don't forget to wave to the Empire State Building while you're there.

The Met...The Frick

The Met is spectacular (and crowded!), but how often can you marvel at a museum within a museum? Henry Clay Frick's early 1900s mansion accomplishes this by housing European art surrounded by original furnishings, his leather bound books, and a romantic Garden Court.

Statue of Liberty boat tour...Staten Island Ferry

How does free sound? While we'll gladly take your hard-earned money on a Statue of Liberty boat tour, we'll also throw you a bone and offer a free voyage passing right by Lady Liberty. Twice. Board the right side going to Staten Island and the left side coming back for great pictures of the Lady and the city.

Advance Broadway tickets...same day TKTS tickets

If your heart's not set on a particular show then head to TKTS the day of for often half-price tickets. You'll be at the mercy of what's available, but you'll be surprised at the selection and seat choices.

Lombardi's...Grimaldi's

Sure, you can brag you stood in an hour-long line at Lombardi's for some great pizza. Even more impressive? Bragging you stood in line at Grimaldi's in Brooklyn because: 1) it's amazing pizza, 2) it has beautiful views of Manhattan 3) you found Brooklyn.

After dinner, head to the water to further indulge at the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory while taking in those beautiful Manhattan views.

Top of the Rock: 30 Rockefeller Plaza

The Frick: 1 East 70th Street

Staten Island Ferry: R to Whitehall

TKTS: various locations, see link

Grimaldi's: 1 Front Street

NY Museums

The Met. The MoMA. The Frick. (plus about 200 others). NY abounds with museums and choosing which one(s) to visit can be overwhelming for those trying to fit in as much NY culture as possible in a short visit. To help, I've compiled a list of the most popular, i.e., most visited. And while these museums are fantastic and definitely worth a visit, I encourage those interested in a more "local" experience to take a peek at some of the smaller, lesser known alternatives. There's the Morgan Library, The Lower East Side Tenement Museum, The Cloisters and so many more. However, one of my favorite museums is the city itself. Walk outside, admire the details of the incredible architecture given to us by various cultures during various time periods. And bonus: it's always free.

Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met)
http://www.metmuseum.org/
1000 5th Ave (at 82nd St)
**admission is "suggested" (for those on a budget)
Lowdown: Massive collection of art from all over the world and from just about every time period. Don't try to do it all in one day, pick and chose sections and enjoy. Weather permitting, don't miss the roof exhibits (see above photo), along with incredible views of Central Park and the city.


Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum (The Guggenheim)
http://www.guggenheim.org/
1071 5th Ave (at 89th St)
**pay what you wish: Saturdays, 5:45 to 7:45 pm
Lowdown: A Frank Lloyd Wright building that houses contemporary and modern art in the form of photography, painting, video and sculpture. Also, Monet, Picasso, van Gogh and Gaugin are among those in the permanent collection, on view in a dedicated gallery.


Museum of Modern Art (The MoMA)
http://www.moma.org/
11 W. 53rd St (near 5th Ave)
**Target free Fridays: free every Friday, 4pm-8pm
Lowdown: Modern Art, and lots of it. After a $425 million renovation, completed in 2004, the space is simply stunning. Enjoy live music in the Sculpture Garden, July and August, Thursdays, 5:30pm-7:30pm.


Whitney Museum of American Art (The Whitney)
http://whitney.org/
99 Gansevoort Street (between Washington Street and 10th Avenue)
Lowdown: 20th Century and contemporary American art with a focus on works by living artists. The Whitney's new downtown building includes 50,000 square feet of indoor galleries, 13,000 square feet of outdoor exhibition space, and terraces facing the High Line.


American Museum of Natural History (The Natural History Museum)
http://www.amnh.org/
Central Park West at 79th St.
**admission is "suggested"
Lowdown: Exhibits focusing on "human cultures, the natural world and the universe through a wide-ranging program of scientific research, education and exhibition." Check out the life-sized whale suspended overhead in the Ocean Life Hall - it's amazing. This museum is great for kids.


New Museum of Contemporary Art (The New Museum)
http://www.newmuseum.org/
235 Bowery (at Prince)
Lowdown: The collection consists solely of contemporary art. Visitors seem to have strong reactions to this museum: complete love or total hatred. For gorgeous views of the city (something everyone can agree) head to the 7th floor Sky Room; open on weekends only.


Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum (The Cooper-Hewitt)
http://www.cooperhewitt.org/
2 E. 90th St (at 5th Ave)
**garden open May-September, weather permitting
Lowdown: A Smithsonian museum, it's the nation's only museum devoted exclusively to historic and contemporary design. Works can be seen in the form of: glass, jewelry, fabrics, textiles and the like. The exquisite garden (with views of Central Park) will make you wish you lived in this mansion, like Andrew Carnegie did in the early 1900s.


The Frick Collection (The Frick)
http://www.frick.org/
1 E. 70th St (near 5th Ave)
**pay what you wish: Sundays, 11am-1pm
Lowdown: It's a museum within a museum. Henry Clay Frick's early 1900s mansion is largely preserved to it's original state, right down to the furniture, upholstery, ornate fireplaces and leather-bound books. It serves as a backdrop to an impressive collection of European art which includes paintings, textiles, clocks and sculptures. Don't miss the serene Garden Court where you can sit on a bench and let your mind get lost in the sounds of the fountain and the beauty of the architecture.

(Note: All information was correct at time of posting. Please check museum websites for the most up-to-date information.)

The Brooklyn Bridge

For all the shopping, restaurants, and entertainment in NYC, one of my favorite things to do is to simply put on U2's "Beautiful Day" and walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. Into the city, home from the city, doesn't matter. As long as I'm on the bridge, all seems right with the world. There are no cars (pedestrian walk is elevated), you're over the water, and there are beautiful views everywhere you look. What's not to love?

The 25-minute walk into the city feels like several "wish you were here" postcards. To the left: the Statue of Liberty and downtown Manhattan. To the right: the Empire State Building and the Chrysler Building. Hanging out for the duration of your walk? The Manhattan Bridge, just to the north.

There's something very "old NY" about the Brooklyn Bridge. Maybe it's the way the grandness of the arches mixes with the simplicity of the wood planks beneath your feet. You can almost imagine it on opening day, 1883: women in long dresses and gloves strolling with men in suits and hats. Then there are the boats. Ferries, cargo ships, luxury cruise liners, water taxis, tour boats, sailboats. It takes you back to a time when water was a primary means of travel and transportation of goods.

I never feel more like a NYer than when i'm on the Brooklyn Bridge. As I'm surrounded by tourists who are in awe of it's beauty and the views I often think "Wow, i'm lucky enough to live in what they're taking home in photographs." Kinda cool.

Ready to create your own bridge memories? Here are directions, along with visitor tips:

• Take the 6 train to Brooklyn Bridge/City Hall. the entrance to the bridge is outside the station. You can also take a number of trains to stops close by. It's very narrow at the bottom of the island and the bridge is only a short walk away.
• Be aware there's a pedestrian lane and a bike lane. The lanes are marked: bikes to the left, pedestrians to the right. Bikes come very fast, DON'T walk in their lane.
• Stay single file or staggered, don't walk several people across. Being NYC, there are lots of people and not a lot of room, so please be kind to other tourists and residents.
• Least crowded time? Before 9am. You'll find a few NYers and a few tourists.
• Most crowded time? Sunset. You'll find every. single. tourist.
• There's great pizza and ice cream on the Brooklyn side

Wish you were here...

xo,
The Brooklyn Bridge